Saturday, September 27, 2008

The things I need...

I've made a short list of some of the tools I use and whether or not I can live without them. The two at the top of the list are my pliers - most people use two pair of chain nose pliers. I choose to use one pair of chain nose and one pair of bent chain nose. Whichever your preference, these pliers are essential and will become your most-used tools.

Because pliers are so important to chainmaille, I suggest not skimping on the quality of your pliers (never use pliers with toothed jaws - smooth jawed only). The German-made pliers are expensive but are also exceptionally well-made. Also take the time to think of what you'll be working with. As for myself, I chose pliers that come to a fine point because I tend to work with small gauge wires and small ID rings. The fine points help me to get into tight areas. If you feel that you just don't have the funds to invest in pricey pliers, you can pick up a pair at your local arts and craft store - just make sure that you sand the inside of your plier's jaws first to remove any tool marks (these will transfer to your rings and create grooves and gouges). I use a good sturdy emery board with a coarse side and a finer side. Seems to do the trick. Just don't be too agressive or your jaws may no longer touch along their length when the pliers are closed. Be very careful in doing this and you should get good results.

My second essential tool is my jump ring mandrel set for winding my own rings. I own a Pepe Jump Ring Maker that has a 20pc mandrel set ranging from 2.5mm to 12mm in 1/2 mm increments. I also have a 28pc transfer punch set that range in sizes from 3/32" to 1/2" in 1/64's. These allow me to wind in those "in between" sizes that my jump ring mandrels don't have. For example, when coiling rings for Jens Pind in 16 gauge wire, 4mm is too tight and 4.5mm is too loose - the perfect ring is somewhere in between. The transfer punches also fit in the chuck of my winder and are about the same length as my regular mandrels. They also do double duty as, well, transfer punches! You can also use screw mandrels, screwdriver shafts, knitting needles - anything that will allow the coil to slide off easily. I personally don't like using wooden dowels - they are soft enough to be gouged by the wire being wound onto them and therefore lose their true diameter after only a few uses (unless you're willing to continually be buying new dowels).

With my Pepe Jump Ring Maker is a hand winder. It has a chuck much like a drill has. A regular drill does work fast for making coils, but the hand winder allows me to keep the proper tension on the wire with one hand while cranking with the other. My coils are much more uniform.

Also with my jump ring maker is a jig for cutting the coils into individual jump rings. It has a piece that fits over a standard #30 flexshaft handpiece. It will not work with a Dremel. You'll need a Foredom-type flex shaft motor. I have a Grobet Flex Shaft motor. It's OK, but doesn't have the power to cut through a coil made with anything thicker than 20 gauge wire. Next time I'll invest in a Foredom with a higher horsepower motor. This leads to my next can't-do-without tool...

To cut larger gauge jump rings I have an ordinary jeweler's hand saw. I use #2 blades with these (I can get a gross of blades for less than 5 bucks) and they seem to work well with just about any metal I've used it on.

Lastly, a pair of Mag-Eyes or a strong pair of readers and good lighting. I also have a lighted swingarm lamp with a magnifier.

Here's the full list (in order of importance):

2 pair of pliers (chain nose or bent chain nose or a combo of the two)
3.75x reading glasses (or a strength that works for you)
Jump ring mandrels (Pepe Tools Jump Ring Maker and transfer punches)
Jeweler's saw frame and saw blades
Wire cutters (small flush cutters for smaller gauge wire and a heavier duty pair for thick wire)
Rotary tumbler with stainless steel shot (for polishing and removing burrs)
Round nose pliers (for making loops)
Digital calipers (wire gauges aren't always what they're supposed to be)
Jewelry polishing cloth
Chasing hammers (flat head and convex head) for handmade clasps and flattening rings
Steel bench block
Flex shaft motor
Needle file set
Emery boards (for removing burrs on clasps).
Aluminum containers with glass lids for storing jump rings. You can also use small ziplock bags or baby food jars.

Of course you may not need all the above, especially if you purchase pre-made jump rings and/or clasps. However, I've found that I use all the tools listed above, even if not all the time. And if you're the really die-hard "I've gotta make everything" type like myself, then a small butane torch may come in handy if you prefer to make your own silver headpins or dabble in Precious Metal Clay.

I hope some of these suggestions help. Happy weaving!!

1 comment:

Annie said...

Hi, I found your site searching for jewelry making suppliers. My son joined a Rennaisance re-enactment group at his high school, and he's been learning how to make chain mail. I've purchased a few pieces of chain mail jewelry at the Renaissance fairs, and I bought the book, Chain Mail Jewelry, by Terry Taylor and Dylan White, so I can try to make my own. I made my first piece of Byzantine last night.

Thank you so much for your site and your helpful articles and suggestions. I'll be reading them all, and following the links.