Saturday, October 18, 2008

What's Your Favorite Chainmaille Weave?

Ya know, I have a few favorite weaves. I'm gonna share them with you just because I can! It might just inspire you to try something you've never tried before.

For simplicity, you just can't beat European 4 in 1. The finished piece has a wonderful, drapey feel to it, almost like cloth. It's versitile, looks great in a bracelet, necklace, ring or anklet. You can even make functional pieces like (of course) tunics, halter tops and change purses with it. I'm not really big into chainmaille as clothing, but nearly every piece of jewelry I've seen done in this weave looks great. It's easy to learn - in my experience it was one of the easiest. It's a little more time consuming than most, especially if you like more than 3 rows in your piece. And depending on the size of the rings used, it can give a different look. Some people prefer a loose, open weave. I myself prefer a nice dense weave done in tiny rings in small gauges. The result looks shimmery and rich.

And then there's Half Persian 4 in 1. I really love this weave. It looks like nothing else and looks equally beautiful in small gauge wire and heavy gauge. It also looks great on both men and women. I know it sounds cliche, but it looks both simple and elegant at the same time. And when it's done in two types of metal, gold and silver for instance, it really pops! It's kind of tricky to get started, which scares a lot of people away from this weave and that's unfortunate. Because once it's started, it's clear sailing all the way! And once you've mastered how to get it started, it becomes easy. Spider has some really good tips on just how easy it is to get started in Weaving Silver Volume 1.

Jens Pind (pronounced "Yens Pint") isn't for the beginner. It's a tight weave to work with because the aspect ratio range is very narrow. If you don't get the size of your rings right either you can't weave it at all, it's so tight when woven that it has no flexibilty or it just simply falls apart. Not falls apart in literal terms, but the weave no longer looks like it's supposed to. Because of that your rings must be the correct size to do this weave. If you've read any of my other posts, then you know I always advise cutting a few rings and testing them first before winding all your wire. It's mainly because of Jens Pind that I suggest this. Make about an inch to see how tight/loose it's going to be. If it's not right, go back and use a ring slightly larger/smaller. Now, I hope I'm not scaring you further to try this weave. Yes, it's tricky. Yes, your rings have to be just right. But when done correctly, this is one of the most beautiful weaves out there. I prefer thin and delicate - tiny rings in smaller gauges (maybe because I love to torture myself :=D). But I and a lot of my customers prefer delicate and fine chains and Jens Pind certainly fits the bill. Here's a tip - my favorite ring size is AWG 20 gauge wire, 2.5mm ID. It results in a thin rope-like chain that's incredibly strong for the thinness of the wire. And because it's the only round chain that I've mentioned so far, it's perfect for neck chains that you intend to put a pendant on.
(Note: the above rings sizes/gauge given for my favorite Jens Pind chain is for Jens Pind 4 in 1)

Lastly, there's Dragon Scale. Another tricky chain and not for the beginner. It also deviates from my usual tastes which run small, fine and delicate. Unless you're completely into self-torture, this weave just can't be done in tiny little rings. I'll leave that to the more adventurous. But the result is just so different looking, so downright COOL looking that it has an appeal all it's own. And as tricky as it may seem to put together, it's actually kinda fun watching it develop. It's heavy when finished, so if you don't like heavy, use a lighter metal like titanium or bright aluminum. But to be honest I haven't seen this weave done in a metal that I don't like. It just looks great whatever is used. And if you're into cuff bracelets, this weave is for YOU! It's thick, it's bold and it'll get noticed.

Just remember one thing: tricky weaves are only tricky until you've mastered them. If you love a challenge like I do, try them. Once you have the weave down it really is like riding a bicycle. It becomes easy. Don't let anything scare you, because even if in the beginning it may seem too tricky, at some point it will click and then you have it down.

Well, those are my favorites. What's yours and why?

5 comments:

Annie said...

So far, I love Dragon Scale, and Byzantine. I bought two pieces of jewelry in these weaves, and I intend on making my own. The Dragon Scale is a pair of stainless steel earrings with a hematite drop. The Byzantine bracelet and earrings are also in stainless steel. The maker called the weave Bird Cage, and my son refers to it as Knight's Chain.

Anonymous said...

I'm totally new to mailling, so i'm just learning. So far, i've done byzantine, box, round maille, inverted round maille, and half persian 4 in 1 (learned it last night!) i'm totally enjoying this new skill, and was very proud of myself when i "got" the half persian - had to stare at the picture, and the links in my hands, for a long time before it made sense, but it finally did. i almost didn't want to stop, because i was afraid i wouldn't remember how to do it this morning! i'm looking forward to dragonscale - it looks totally cool. thanks for the info on your blog - every little bit helps!

AllenArt said...

If you've "gotten" Half Persian, Dragonscale isn't that hard. All you need to remember to do is tuck those rings under the other rings with your pliers after finishing with a row. Other than that, it's easy as pie.

After you've mastered Dragonscale, give Jens Pind a try. It's a bit more complicated, but it makes a gorgeous chain. And you'll be proud of yourself when it's done, because it is one of the trickier ones. There are tutorials out there that give good directions, but I didn't "get" Jens Pind myself until I saw it done on one of Spider's cds. It's different when you can see with your eyes every step. And if you're really interested in chainmaille, they are a good thing to have. And she has a trick to get Half Persian started that makes it absolutely simple to do.

Have fun with your chainmaille - it's addicting, isn't it??

Annie said...

I've made my Byzantine earrings, several pairs, a bracelet, and half of a matching necklace. Chainmaille is addicting,and I wish I had more time to do it! I'm cutting my own rings, and it's so satisfying to start with wire on a spool, and turn it into something beautiful. Any advice on a good, flush cut plier?

AllenArt said...

The flush cutter I use is a Eurotool TR-5000-R, made in Italy. It cuts wire like it was butter, but you can't really cut anything larger than 18 gauge. If I have lots of rings to cut, I use a jeweler's saw. It makes the straightest cut possible, the blades are inexpensive, and you can cut any gauge wire with it. I have a hand saw which I use most, and for smaller gauge wire I use my rotary tool and a jig. I find that cutting with a saw makes the straightest cuts, whereas a flush cutter will make a straight cut on one side, you still have the notched end on the other side of the ring which keeps the ends from meeting seamlessly.

If you're going to use a flush cutter, I would definitely recommend the Eurotool. It's a very well made plier at a midrange price - very affordable. I think they run about $25.